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Volterra

History of the town.

It was already important 2.400 years ago, Umbrians, Etruscans, Florentines, etc, alternately dwelled in this area. Volterra with its simple medieval appearance, dominates the Cecina valleys. It also overlooks the unique view of the "Balze", a vast stretch of highly eroded chalk landscape furrowed by gully erosion, which over the years has engulfed necroplises, churches and cyclopean walls. On the edge of a precipice, there are ruins of Etruscan walls and the Badia Church. It is a true monumental town, steeped in urban and artistic evidence. Piazza dei Prior is surrounded by austere palaces with portals adorned with pointed arches and "case-torri". The massive Palazzo dei Priori (art gallery) with its 15C and 16C glazed shields, is one of the finest medieval squares in Italy. The Romanesque cathedral was remodelled in Pisan style, in front of it stands the octagonal Baptistery (the font of baptisms and Sansovino, 1502). Furthermore, there is the Casa-torre with its connecting arch (13C), the Fortress, one of the largest medieval strongholds, put to use as a prison and the Renaissance Minucci-Solaini Palazzo attributed to Sangallo. The remains of the Etruscan walls with the Porta dell'Arco are impressive. The town has numerous alabaster workshops. Wholesome ewe's milk cheese, cottage cheese, mutton, cured meats and hams are produced in this area, which is also rich in truffles.
Volterra becomes one of the twelve Lucumos of the Etruscan nation in the second half of the 3rd century B.C. and is later taken by the Romans becoming an important Municipium. At the rise of Christianity, Volterra is soon to follow the new faith and at the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 A.D. it is already the centre of a vast diocese. After the Barbaric domination and the Bishops' rule, the free "commune" is affirmed and from the first half of the 12th century Volterra begins to formulate its own laws.
But this autonomy is not to last for lang. Freed from the rule of the Bishop-Count and the Belforti family (1361), Volterra then has to fight against the hegemonie politics of Florence. Open to rebellion (1429), shrewd endurance, compromise and apparent friendship only serve to delay the ultimate defeat which comes about in 1472 over the issue of the alum quarries within the Volterran territory.
Volterra is not yet touched by the stress of contemporary life and visitors who come to Volterra have the immediate impression of stepping into the past, of being in a particular place with its narrow Medieval streets and the enigma of its Etruscan origins.
Volterra is prevalently Medieval and yet cherishes abundant evidence of the Etruscan period: the Porta all'Arco (the Etruscan gate) which date from the 4th century B.C., the Acropolis, the defensive walls which are still visible in parts of the town.
The Roman period is attested by the important remains of the Teatro di Vallebona which date back to the Augustan period, the Baths and an enormous rectangular water cistern.
The Middle Ages are not only visible in its urban structure but too in its buildings, its hause-towers and churches: the Palazzo dei Priori, a 13th century building, the Palazzo Pretorio, with its crenellated Tower of the Little Pig, the pair of towers of Buonparenti and Bonaguidi family, the house-towers of Toscano family, the Cathedral (12th century), the Baptistry (13th century) streaked with Volterran stone, the conventual Church of San Francesco with its adjacent chapel of the Croce di Giorno, the Church of San Michele and of San Alessandro.
The Renaissance period has influenced Volterra in a particular way, however without changing the Medieval atmosphere. Some good examples are the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini, beautifully inserted among the Medieval hause-towers, the Palazzo Incontr Vitii with its theatre Persio Flacco added in the courtyard in the 19th century, the Palazzo Inghirami, the Palazzo Ruggieri, the Convent of San Girolamo with the terracotta statues of Della Robbia and the Medicean Fortress which looms over the Medieval town.

Apart from its monuments, its art and history, Volterra also offers a magnificent panorama of the gentle undulating hills of the surrounding landscape abruptly interrupted in the West by the Balze (crags). The slow progression of these repeated landslides finally precipitated the destruction of the most ancient Etruscan necropolis, the earliest Christian churches and the ruin of the 11th century Badia Camaldolese. Today Volterra has 3 museums of considerable artistic and historical value. The Museo Guarnacci is one of the most important museums in Italy for its rich Etruscan-Roman patrimony. The Pinacoteca and the Museo Civico, preserve valuable paintings of the Sienese and Florentine schools, among which "The descent from the Cross" by Rosso Fiorentino. Finally the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo is noteworthy for the variety and quantity of ecclesiastical vestments, the collection of gold reliquary, the illuminated manuscripts and the 14th century sculptures of the Sienese school.

The relics preserved in the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum allow visitors to relive the history of this town. It was already important 2,400 years ago, Umbrians, Etruscans, Florentines, etc, alternately dwelled in this area. Volterra (555m), "town of the wind and rock" (D'Annunzio), with its simple medieval appearance, dominates the Era and Cecina valleys. It also overlooks the unique view of the "Balze", a vast stretch of highly eroded chalk landscape furrowed by gully erosion, which over the years has engulfed necroplises, churches and cyclopean walls. On the edge of a precipice, there are ruins of Etruscan walls and the Badia Church. It is a true monumental town, steeped in urban and artistic evidence. Piazza dei Prior is surrounded by austere palaces with portals adorned with pointed arches and "case-torri". The massive Palazzo dei Priori (art gallery) with its 15C and 16C glazed shields, is one of the finest medieval squares in Italy. The Romanesque cathedral was remodelled in Pisan style, in front of it stands the octagonal Baptistery (the font of baptisms and Sansovino, 1502). Furthermore, there is the Casa-torre with its connecting arch (13C), the Fortress, one of the largest medieval strongholds, put to use as a prison and the Renaissance Minucci-Solaini Palazzo attributed to Sangallo. The remains of the Etruscan walls with the Porta dell'Arco are impressive. The town has numerous alabaster workshops. Wholesome ewe's milk cheese, cottage cheese, mutton, cured meats and hams are produced in this area, which is also rich in truffles

Volterra becomes one of the twelve Lucumos of the Etruscan nation in the second half of the 3rd century B.C. and is later taken by the Romans becoming an important Municipium. At the rise of Christianity, Volterra is soon to follow the new faith and at the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 A.D. it is already the centre of a vast diocese. After the Barbaric domination and the Bishops' rule, the free "commune" is affirmed and from the first half of the 12th century Volterra begins to formulate its own laws.
But this autonomy is not to last for lang. Freed from the rule of the Bishop-Count and the Belforti family (1361), Volterra then has to fight against the hegemonie politics of Florence. Open to rebellion (1429), shrewd endurance, compromise and apparent friendship only serve to delay the ultimate defeat which comes about in 1472 over the issue of the alum quarries within the Volterran territory.
Volterra is not yet touched by the stress of contemporary life and visitors who come to Volterra have the immediate impression of stepping into the past, of being in a particular place with its narrow Medieval streets and the enigma of its Etruscan origins.

Volterra is prevalently Medieval and yet cherishes abundant evidence of the Etruscan period: the Porta all'Arco (the Etruscan gate) which date from the 4th century B.C., the Acropolis, the defensive walls which are still visible in parts of the town.
The Roman period is attested by the important remains of the Teatro di Vallebona which date back to the Augustan period, the Baths and an enormous rectangular water cistern.
The Middle Ages are not only visible in its urban structure but too in its buildings, its hause-towers and churches: the Palazzo dei Priori, a 13th century building, the Palazzo Pretorio, with its crenellated Tower of the Little Pig, the pair of towers of Buonparenti and Bonaguidi family, the house-towers of Toscano family, the Cathedral (12th century), the Baptistry (13th century) streaked with Volterran stone, the conventual Church of San Francesco with its adjacent chapel of the Croce di Giorno, the Church of San Michele and of San Alessandro.
The Renaissance period has influenced Volterra in a particular way, however without changing the Medieval atmosphere. Some good examples are the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini, beautifully inserted among the Medieval hause-towers, the Palazzo Incontr Vitii with its theatre Persio Flacco added in the courtyard in the 19th century, the Palazzo Inghirami, the Palazzo Ruggieri, the Convent of San Girolamo with the terracotta statues of Della Robbia and the Medicean Fortress which looms over the Medieval town

from its monuments, its art and history, Volterra also offers a magnificent panorama of the gentle undulating hills of the surrounding landscape abruptly interrupted in the West by the Balze (crags). The slow progression of these repeated landslides finally precipitated the destruction of the most ancient Etruscan necropolis, the earliest Christian churches and the ruin of the 11th century Badia Camaldolese. Today Volterra has 3 museums of considerable artistic and historical value. The Museo Guarnacci is one of the most important museums in Italy for its rich Etruscan-Roman patrimony. The Pinacoteca and the Museo Civico, preserve valuable paintings of the Sienese and Florentine schools, among which "The descent from the Cross" by Rosso Fiorentino. Finally the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo is noteworthy for the variety and quantity of ecclesiastical vestments, the collection of gold reliquary, the illuminated manuscripts and the 14th century sculptures of the Sienese school

The “magic and mysterious” city of Volterra has its roots in three thousand years of history. It is possible to find evidence and traces from every historical period which gives the artistic city a unique aspect.
The ancient city walls, the imposing Porta all’Arco, the Necropolis of Marmini and the numerous archeological finds conserved in the Museo Etrusco Guarnacci like the Ombra della Sera with its unique profile, the funeral urns and the finely crafted jewellery, bear testimony of the Etruscan period.
The Theatre of Vallebona survives from the period of Augustus and Volterra is also a city of museums. Other than the Etruscan Museum there is the Civic Art Gallery with a fine collection of works from the Sienese and Florentine Schools, among which is the Deposition from the Cross by Rosso Fiorentino. The Museum of Sacred Art has an important collection of reliquary, 14th century Sienese sculpture and miniatures.
The alabaster craft whose history is inseparable from that of the history of the city, represents an other point of

great interest. Browsing around the numerous exhibitions and workshops of the city, visitors will be charmed by the magic atmosphere.
Besides the art and history the surrounding area is rich in natural beauty. There are organised excursions on foot, on horse back or by bicycle along kilometres of sign posted itineraries enabling visitors to discover unique and beautiful places.
Volterra is also famous for the regional gastronomical specialities and for the warm hospitality offered to visitors. Many hotels, farm houses and holiday apartments are available to tourists along with a well equipped campsite and a modern youth hostel.
During the summer period there are many cultural events like the annual festival Volterra Teatro, classical and contemporary music concerts, exhibitions and folklore events which enable visitors to enjoy a rich and varied holiday The Upper Cecina Valley is made up of the districts of Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, Montecatini Val di Cecina, Pomarance and Volterra. The area is bordered to the west by the Cornia Valley and the lower Cecina Valley, to the north by the Era Valley, to the east by the Upper Elsa Valley and to the south by the Colline Metallifere

The area is rich in history and boasts a unique artistic and archeological heritage. Together with the landscape, this area of Tuscany has inspired many writers, poets and painters such as Rosa, Stendhal, Lawrence, Dennis, Corot, D'Annunzio and Cassola.
Volterra has most of the works of art from the Etruscan, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance periods. The city is the cultural centre of the beautiful Upper Cecina Valley, dominating an area of varied landscapes. The forests of Berignone-Tatti and Monte-rufoli are some of the wooded areas which form the landscape, often characterised by Mediterranean shrub land, the dramatic landslides of the Balze and roling hills

Montecatini Val di Cecina is on the eastern slopes of Poggio La Croce. The ancient Monteleone is dominated by a tower at the foot of which a typical medieval town is situated. The main religious and political buildings can be identified in the Palazzo Pretorio with its elegant porch and in the 14th century church of S. Biagio.
Montegemoli is characterised by the emerging structure of the castle with its round tower and its renaissance forms.
Pomarance conserves important vestiges of its ancient past like the Porta Orciolina and the Porta di Casale of the 14th century town walls, the church of S. Giovanni containing
paintings by Roncalli, Cergignani and Ademollo and the palaces of Pucci, Bicocchi, Bardini, De Larderel and Pretorio.
Montecastelli is characterised by a massive Medieval tower with a square base and the Romanesque church of Saints Filippo and Giacomo (13th century). The church has three naves with many carved capitals with figurative details. Near the cemetery is the Buca delle Fate, an Etruscan tomb from the 6th century B.C.
S. Dalmazio is interesting for the remains of the Medieval walls which with two gateways define the circular form of the village. The Romanesque church houses a terracotta tabernacle by the workshop of Luca della Robbia.
Nearby are the dramatic ruins of the castle of Rocca Sillana
Montecerboli also has the circular form of an ancient castle with a Medieval village.
Castelnuovo Val di Cecina is surrounded by extensive woodlands. The town preserves its original urban form built around a rocky outcrop.
Sasso Pisano is built around its ancient centre dominated by the castle on the highest level of the village.
Serrazzano is interesting for its urban centre with its Medieval walls and two gateways. Noteworthy are the Gothic vaults inside the church of S. Donato and the pretty Romanesque church of S. Antonio.
Sassa is characterised by a tower and the church of S. Martino.The village offers magnificent views inland towards Volterra and Querceto.
The village of Querceto is built around a residential castle, situated on a rocky outcrop. Inside the village the beautiful
chapel of S. Giovanni is worth a visit. The village is set amongst beautiful woodlands of pine and oak.
The art of working alabaster forms one of the principal economic activities of the Cecina Valley.
Salt is also extracted at Saline di Volterra. The heat from natural hot water springs is used to produce electrical energy in the power plants of Larderello, a typical industrial village with a church designed by Michelucci and the interesting museum of the geothermic industry.
Ponteginori, built in 1919 by the Società Solvay, is a unique example in the Cecina Valley of a model Northern European style mining village.
Libbiano, Micciano, Lustignano and La Leccia are built at the top of hills suggesting their ancient defensive origins.

 
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